Sunday, February 01, 2009

Jitney to Juriquilla

We spent yesterday afternoon in Juriquilla, Querétaro's ostentatiously wealthy suburb, because their bullring won a bidding war for the services of Julián "El Juli" López Escobar, one of bullfighting's bigger marquee names. The bull fight itself was much better than average - though perhaps not enough to justify paying 30 bucks to sit in the last row. For us, the real attraction is the crowd: imagine if the the Hamptons allowed Mexicans...only Mexicans. Most of the audience considers themselves part of the show. Indeed, most of them are dressed more gaudily (and expensively) than the toreros, and spend far more time prancing around, thrusting out their hips, and waving to the audience.

Plaza Juriquilla is actually quite small, so while your larger plazas tend to handle the dead bulls well out of sight, in Juriquilla they're dragged out to the parking lot and winched up onto a crappy flatbed pickup to be taken to the butcher. (The meat is distributed to poorer families for free, unlike, say, American cattle which sell for about $40 a pound in some of your finer eateries.) All of this is visible from the last row, which now that we think about it may explain the price tag.

Below you can see the respective rides for the bulls (l) and the front-row spectators (r). It's the Plaza Juriquilla Experience in a nutshell.

16 comments:

Anonymous said...

I don't understand. How come your mother hasn't already posted some wisecrack about your hobby yet? Is she OK?

Anonymous said...

Bullfight critics ranked in rows,
Crowd the enormous Plaza full,
But only one is there who knows,
And he's the man who fights the bull.

Anonymous said...

"The man who fights the half dead bull."


M

Anonymous said...

"The man who fights the half dead bull."


M

Burro Hall said...

Whereas in the commercial beef industry, courageous young farm boys go mano a mano with ferocious well-trained cattle, winner take all.

Anonymous said...

Why would they??? To torture them?

M

Anonymous said...

I supose it's a fitting end (being dumped on a crappy flatbed) to such a vicious creature who was trying to torture the nice human who was in the ring with him. After all, all the human wanted was to be friends with the ungrateful creature!
The bull got what he deserved!!

M

Burro Hall said...

When you said that for your New Year's Resolution you were finally giving up meat, I didn't believe you. But here we are already in February and you're still holding fast! Congrats.

Anonymous said...

NO, I said I was giving up TORTURED meat.

M

Burro Hall said...

You mean like this?

Anonymous said...

Yes, those things go on. But the difference here is that this cruelty is ILLEGAL! There are many organizations out there trying to stop these unethical slaughter houses from operating.
Where is the protection of animals in Mexico?

M

Burro Hall said...

Raising cattle in huge, overcrowded industrial farms, force-feeding them antibiotics and other pharmaceuticals, conking them on the head, slashing their throats and chopping them up into steaks is illegal in the US now? This Obama guy isn't fucking around.

Anonymous said...

I give up!
I am forced to admit to the world that I raised a son who seeks out animal torture and loves watching it. And who, by the way, is a meat eater! Just like millions of people, except that most of us don't enjoy their pain and many of us are fighting to end the cruelty that occurs at some plants.
Enjoy your bull"fights"!

M

Burro Hall said...

No one likes watching cows get run over by forklifts, but you don't find all cattle farming/slaughter inherently cruel?

Anonymous said...

Yes I do. Just like chicken farming is cruel and even fishing is cruel. The object here is to try to make conditions as humane as possible.
The same goes for circuses and zoos.Some are OK but others should be put out of business. None are good.

M

Anonymous said...

Enjoy your tofu!