Because kissing The Man's ass requires a hands-on, personal touch, we've been out of town for something like 26-and-a-half of the last 28 weeks. We usually don't like to leave the people of Querétaro unsupervised for that long, and with good reason. We've returned to a city bitterly divided. On one side, young libertines who want to go out and have fun, to shake the small-town dust off their shoes and dance the night away, to taste the forbidden flavors of life beyond the city limits. On the other, a band of conservative crusaders looking to preserve a traditional way of life, seeking to consign the rabble-rousers to eternal damnation. Readers of a certain age may recognize this as the plot line of "Footloose."
Querétaro's Centro Historico has a lot of problems, but as far as we've noticed, "surfeit of good bars and restaurants" isn't one of them. Judging from the profusion of orange "ENOUGH! NO more bars!" signs covering our neighborhood, this is not a universally held opinion. In our absence, the Women's Christian Temperance Union has apparently opened a local chapter, and has been leading midnight marches through the streets of the Centro, city inspectors in tow, to make sure local businesses have all their papers in order. This is in response to an epidemic of "loud music you can hear from the street, drunks wandering in and out and keying cars...vomit and defecation on the sidewalks."
We're all in favor of an Anti-Defecation League, of course, and would proudly endorse a "No Shitting on the Sidewalks!" campaign. But "No More Bars!" strikes us as seriously misguided. Aside from a few overly raucous places on Cinco de Mayo (which is Spanish for "Bourbon Street") we have no idea what part of the Centro is so excessively bar-choked that "No More!" is a reasonable response. Beyond that, a "No More Bars!" policy essentially means "No More Liquor Licenses!" which essentially means "No More New Restaurants That Don't Totally Suck!" Over the past year, a handful of new, non-enchilada-serving establishments have opened in the Centro (some of which, in the interest of disclosure, have done business with our subsidiary, Burro Hall Packaged Foods and Confectionery Industries, S.A.). Very few of these places have liquor licenses, and the process of obtaining one is about as complicated as adopting a healthy caucasian baby. Papering all the neighboring windows with big orange "No More Bars!" signs probably won't make that any easier.
Santiago de Querétaro is a city of 730,000 people - bigger than Boston, Washington DC, Atlanta, Las Vegas or Denver. It's bigger than Miami and New Orleans combined. It's a college town. It aspires to be a high technology center. It's a major tourist destination. The fact that life in the center of such a town can get noisy and crowded should surprise exactly no one, and should certainly be taken into consideration before one decides to live there. That's why great cities are surrounded by great suburbs, where no one shits on the sidewalk and residents can sleep peacefully after enjoying the nightlife in the city center.